Place a small frying pan over a medium heat and tip in the fennel seeds. Dry fry them, swirling occasionally until their toasted smell comes to the nose and they have darkened in colour. It is essential, however, that they are not burnt - moving them about is imperative.
Take the kale and test the stalks; if they are tender and giving, you can add them to the salad bowl. If not, strip the leaf from the stalks and discard them.
Chop up the kale and put in a bowl. Pour in the rapeseed oil and cider vinegar and toss the leaves until well dressed. Season with salt and try again. Scatter over the fennel seeds and the brown muscovado sugar. Eat immediately.