Put the oil and garlic in a large saucepan and heat gently until the garlic starts to sizzle. Add the tomato juice and passata and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 10 minutes, without letting it boil. Add the Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and plenty of seasoning. Then add the Tabasco, a drop at a time, until spicy enough for your taste.
Mix the crème fraîche and horseradish together. Splash a little vodka (if using) into each glass, spoon in some hot soup, then add a spoonful of horseradish cream and top with a scattering of celery.
Tip: The vodka in this is added to each portion rather than the pan, so it can be a family-friendly dish. You could also serve it up in small bowls as a canapé.