Rub all around the inside of a fondue pot with the bruised garlic clove, then discard. Add 175ml (6fl oz) of the wine to the fondue pot and place the pot over a lit fondue base (this should be in the middle of the table you are eating at – see the manufacturer's instructions on how to set up the fondue set.) Bring the wine to a slow simmer over the flame.
Toss the cheeses in a bowl with the cornflour and then add a small handful of cheese to the pot. Stir in a figure eight pattern until the cheese starts to melt, then add another handful of cheese and continue with this method, always stirring in a figure eight, until all the cheese is melted and smooth. Be patient with this step, as the mixture will firm up first before it melts into a smooth sauce. Continue stirring while gradually adding the Kirsch. Season with the grated nutmeg and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.
The fondue should be kept just lightly bubbling at all times so the cheese doesn’t overheat and become stringy. You may need to turn the heat off for a short time to achieve this, but remember to return to a low heat once it starts to cool down. The cheese mixture will thicken as the quantity is reduced – you can thin it out by adding a little of the remaining wine, but warm it slightly first.
Using fondue forks, or other long-handled forks, spear the bread, meat or vegetables one at a time, and dip them into the cheese, swirling to coat – the continuous stirring helps to keep the right consistency.
Nibble on the pickles between bites to help cut through the richness of the cheese. Do not be tempted to drink cold drinks, including wine, throughout or just after the meal, as it will cause the cheese to set firmly in your stomach, making it more difficult to digest. Instead, drink small glasses of Kirsch or whichever spirit you are using in the fondue.
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