Take the smallest potatoes and scrub well, leaving the skins on.
Bake them in your oven at Gas Mark 6, 200˚C, fan 180˚C on a bed of rock salt. This makes the skins shrivel up and the insides soft.
After 30-40 minutes, when the insides are soft (test this by inserting a skewer), take them out. Slit open the top and scoop in a teaspoon of salted butter, a tablespoon of crème frâiche and top with some cod or salmon roe or, if for a special occasion, proper caviar.
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