Trout and fennel seeds: Use skin-on trout fillets in place of salmon, cooking as instructed in step 2. Omit the nutmeg and cayenne pepper in step 4 and use 1 tsp crushed fennel seeds and 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill in their place. Pot up and garnish with a few sprigs of dill.
Crab and tarragon: Swap the salmon for 625g cooked crab, skipping step 2 and the first part of step 4. Replace the nutmeg and cayenne pepper in step 4 with 1 tbsp each chopped tarragon and grated lemon zest.
Smoked mackerel and horseradish: Replace the salmon with 625g smoked mackerel fillets and miss out step 2. Swap the nutmeg for 2 tsp creamed horseradish.